On our first full day in Memphis, TN (May 16th), we arrived at the Memphis Branch of the National Association for the Advancement of Colored People (NAACP) to meet with Ian Randolph, Chair of the Political Action Committee. Ian is committed to getting people to vote, and he highlighted his emphasis and focus on issues (e.g., voting rights) rather than candidates or parties. He also reminded us that voter disenfranchisement efforts persist to this day. Ian explained that Tennessee residents recently voted to require firemen, police officers, and emergency personnel to live within the county they serve, but the Tennessee state legislature overrode the decision in direct opposition to what the voting community wanted – a clear violation of democracy. This modern-day example illustrated how policy and ideology continue to work hand in hand; its connection to historic battles over ideology pertaining to the control of Black bodies was abundantly clear. After concluding our meeting with Ian at the NAACP, we spent much of the afternoon exploring the National Civil Rights Museum, built around the former Lorraine Motel, the site of the assassination of Martin Luther King Jr. on April 4, 1968.
The next day (May 17th), our group drove to rural Mississippi to complete the Emmett Till Pilgrimage. We had the opportunity to speak with Benjamin Saulsberry, the Public Engagement and Museum Education Director at the Emmett Till Interpretive Center in Sumner, MS, and Mayor Johnny B. Thomas of the Emmett Till Historic Intrepid Center (E.T.H.I.C.) in Glendora, MS. We strongly encourage readers to educate themselves about the brutal murder of 14-year-old Emmett Till, but in brief, our pilgrimage took us to the locations where two white men tossed Emmett Till’s body over the Black Bayou Bridge (Glendora, MS) and where the men were tried, but ultimately acquitted by an all-white, male jury (Sumner, MS).
One recurring theme our group discussed was the importance of being present, intentional, and reverent when visiting and learning about key historical sites in the civil rights movement. Many of us expressed disappointment and frustration after observing other visitors who appeared to rush through the historical exhibits without any obvious attention to the featured content, or who thought it was appropriate to take “selfies” at significant assassination and murder sites.
Both of these two days presented heavy information, leading us to reflect on the injustices of the past and present. The end of each day however presented more joyful moments. After the National Civil Rights Museum, we took the time to explore Beale Street, a historic area known for a lively culture filled with energetic music, delicious food, and unique shops. The street was alive with energy as people walked all around, enjoying the warm sunny weather. Some sat down to enjoy the beats of live music or filled various buildings identified by their eye-catching neon light signs. We couldn’t help but be captured by the captivating energy that surrounded us.
Similarly, following our pilgrimage to rural Mississippi to visit the Emmett Till Interpretive Center and Emmett Till Historic Intrepid Center, our group dined in Central BBQ, a top-rated spot for BBQ in Memphis. Surrounded by the rich smells of slow smoked Memphis-style BBQ, the talkative restaurant environment, and the company of one another, once again, we could not help but smile and enjoy the warm atmosphere while digging into a delicious plate of food.
One might not think that the more joyful end to our days would have an immediate connection to the history we have learned about, and yet in some ways it is not so far removed from it. While visiting the Emmett Till Historic Intrepid Center, we learned about King’s Place Juke Joint. This space boasted a lively weekend life where Black people could escape racial discrimination and direct their energy to socialization, music, and joy. This is merely one example of a location that hosted many moments of celebration and community within an identity that was all too often devalued. In the context of living in a society that tells you your identity, culture, and personhood are not of value, moments of joy and celebration become personal acts of resistance. So, we take a moment to recognize that the same melting pot of Memphis music (delta-blues, jazz, rock ‘n’ roll, R&B and gospel) that spreads entertainment and jubilance to eager crowds walking down the street today has historical roots in expressions of melancholy, anguish, and defiance. These elements do not work against each other, but rather are linked to one another.
While it is important to make time for deep reflection and painful history, we should remember that there is a time and place to find joy and celebration, sometimes even at the same time. Though there are still many battles being fought, stopping to rest and look back reveals hard earned progress. In describing his work with the NAACP, Ian had told us “keep your mind on the future…don’t expect the good things tomorrow” and so we add: take the time to enjoy the good things today.
~Cindy Garibay & Dr. Lauren Berger